Knight in shining armour

With a focus on craftsmanship, brand visionary and artistic director Kim Jones has used the power of jewellery, both to inform an aesthetic and to affirm brand codes. To quote my colleague and Image and Content Strategist, Ann-Marie Voina: “Jewellery as a category has the ability to completely define a brand identity. Jewellery can be used to explain brand codes – colour, shape and overall zeitgeist ­– it’s an essential component that can describe an entire aesthetic”.

Harnessing the creative genius of both Victoire de Castellane, Creative Director at Dior High Jewellery, and Delfina Delettrez, designer of her own eponymous label, Fendi’s newly-appointed creative director, Kim Jones takes a strategic approach.

Fendi Couture SS21

Not only did Delfina design the jewellery for Jones’s inaugural first SS21 couture show at Fendi, but she also walked alongside a star-studded cohort of iconic models to celebrate the highly anticipated collaboration. Delettrez’s supersized Murano glass droplet chandelier earrings, sculptural hair combs, and orbital ear cuffs supported Kim Jones’s storytelling and adorned each look at the show. 

A focus on artisanal practice and materials harnesses the skill of local craftspeople in line with Fendi’s ‘Hand to Hand’ initiative. Driven by a respect for timeless craft expertise, this initiative supports local artists and traditional production methods that not only explores material innovation through jewellery but also plays a part in environmental responsibility through preservation of heritage.

Fendi RTW AW21

For RTW  AW21, Delettrez focused on more blatant iconography - the ‘F’ monogram, this time interpreted as seamless mirror image cut-out incorporated into the sensual profile of a lozenge shape frame. The Fendi O-Lock hardware is integrated across category, injecting wit and surprise through playful iterations of scale and stone set flourishes.

Fendi AW21 Couture

AW21 Couture saw a return to Italian craftsmanship. Delfina’s nod to heritage appeared to be inspired by Roman artefacts and architectural details.  Sensual, scroll-like Carrara marble ear cuffs and colliers wrapped around the ears, wrist and neckline – to sublime effect. This architectural sensibility was echoed elsewhere. Micro-mosaic stone vitrines in scallop settings and geometric arrow-shaped elements carved out striking silhouettes on the neckline and hung suspended from the lobe, giving an impression of armour. A nod to the double ‘F’ monogram, skilfully yet subtly integrated into the design throughout, showed welcome confidence that the future of Fendi was in good hands.

Pivoting back to Dior with a focus on Kim Jones’s role as artistic director for Men’s Dior, we have seen a sublime shift away from monotony and brand fatigue towards hype, re-invention and re-imaginings of brand signatures. For the past couple of seasons, Kim has harnessed the discerning eye of Tokyo-based Yoon Ahn, co-founder of cult jewellery brand Ambush, to create seasonal jewellery collections aligned with his vision. 

For the most recent Dior X Travis Scott’s Men’s SS22 show, Jones enlisted the skill of Victoire de Castellaine who, during her 20 year long tenure with the company, had until then never designed a piece for the catwalk. 

Dior Men's SS22

The setting for the show was a nostalgic nod to Christian Dior’s childhood rose garden, which transformed into a cactus garden reflecting Texan-born Travis Scott’s home in Houston.  De Castellaine’s  statement sautoir incorporated the show’s two key motifs – the cactus and the rose – as well as signature ‘Diorette’ elements: flower clusters and even a butterfly. Banded diamond encrusted cactus arms are offset with shimmering pearls, enamel colour pops and deep-hued emeralds.  The intelligent interpretation draws on the designers playful aesthetic alongside the symbolism of home, street culture and the integrity of the collaboration.

Through the skill of these women, Kim recognises the power of adornment and the significant role it plays in brand building. He is giving jewellery the opportunity to shine and revel in the glory it so rightly deserves.

Words: Juliet Hutton-Squire

Images: Imaxtree