There was a common theme across fashion and jewellery at the recent couture shows in Paris.
L-R: Iris van Herpen; HA for Gaultier; Unsplash
Fluid lines and a hypnotic blue colour palette transported me to a mesmerising world of calm. On the fashion front, the theme played out in multiple ways, from the ethereal underwater footage involving a free-diver and dancer at Iris van Herpen to Heider Ackerman’s first foray into haute couture at Jean Paul Gaultier.
Ackerman’s striking geometries and reductive signature aesthetic came to the fore in sculptural profiles and sweeping inserts such as the blue streams of fabric emphasising the contours of the female form.
L-R: Gaurav Gupta; Rahul Mishra
Rahul Mishras’ otherworldly underwater aesthetic was encapsulated by a dramatic cape inspired by the amoebic motion of a jellyfish as it moves through the sea. In contrast, Gaurav Gupta’s more precise, fluid-like shapes in deep indigo nodded to the concept of infinite movement held within a structured form.
Macro report 2024/1
Go With the Flow is a 2024 trend we forecast at Adorn through our consumer insight and cross sector analysis. It has been gratifying to note, therefore, that many of the recent fashion and high jewellery showcases in Paris also tapped into the theme. In jewellery, as in fashion, the scope was broad and interpretations far-reaching. They included literal translations, such as Chaumet’s collection name, Fluid Lines, to more subtle connections to the theme played out across silhouette, gemstone cuts and shapes, and colour applications.
Victoire de Castellane’s Dearest Dior collection is a case in point. Whilst not water-inspired, the collection is influenced by the diaphanous and fragile quality of lace. The delicate metalwork captures the graceful movement of lace as it interacts with human form; vibrant blue sapphires and supple golden mesh-like sheets nod to the sensual and mesmerising fluidity of the contours.
An ode to togetherness and assertive femininity, and expression of sensual form, Chaumet’s Liens Inseperables collection is imbued with fluidity and suppleness expressed in flowing profiles that intertwine and unite. Furthermore, the maison’s signature blue sapphires accentuate the liquefied quality of the elegant silhouettes.
Repossi’s high jewellery showcase is a more abstract affair. Its curved corners and off-set placement of pear cut diamonds evokes a tension between symmetrical and organic. Like a droplet perched on the edge of a pipe, the floating diamond sits in direct contrast to the linear forms created by both metal and negative space.
Whilst Boucheron’s collection is inspired by an archive piece, creative director Claire Choisne’s gender fluid collection supports this concept of fluid lines metaphorically. Pieces like this double clip brooch also transform into different jewels supporting a more transitional approach to wearability. The cuff’s exotic scallop settings and hynpotic blue stones exude water-like properties alongside a sense of regality that make it fit for any queen.
Last, but not least, this Sapphire & Diamond Dragonfly brooch forms part of artist jeweller Cindy Chao’s White Label collection. The dragonfly, itself a symbol of self-actualisation and transformation, features two pear-shaped Sri Lankan sapphires set like water droplets on the delicate wings.
This, and more, is all summed up in the descriptive text introducing Go With the Flow as an aesthetic and as a statement of consumer sentiment for 2024. It reads: “Whether you follow your muse, let fate decide of simply take your chances, sometimes it’s best to just go with the flow. From happy accidents to serendipitous discoveries, this laidback mood can be channelled into languid forms and sensuous silhouettes that evoke a feeling of movement, discovery and limitless possibility.”
To find out more how you can stay ahead of the curve and anticipate what’s next, why not sign up for an Adorn demo. We guarantee – you’ll never look back!
Words: Juliet Hutton-Squire