Couture's Exquisite Geometry

Whilst considering my angle for this piece, I was struck by how prolific geometry influences design. Geometry is the thread that connects the different brands I engaged with, albeit in different ways. The pieces I have selected reveal the story I wish to tell through the lens of geometric form.

Boucheron

'This is not a ring', Boucheron

Claire Choisne’s ‘More is More’ collection was conceived during the second lockdown, at a time when things felt gloomy and austere. In contrast to the sentiment of the day she imagined a collection that inspired joy though colour and material innovation (bio-acetate, Lycra, resin and magnesium were used), that defied pre-conceptions around preciousness. She imagined a collection where the  seemingly impossible was made possible.

Drawing on inspiration from the 80s and the soft rebellion of the Memphis movement. Choisne’s striking ‘More is More’ collection plays with simple volumes, graphic contrast, scale and illusion through trompe l’oeil and comic book aesthetics. She made the seemingly impossible, possible leveraging the skills of master craftsmen.

The room on Place Vendôme was transformed into an 80s-themed playground with a boxing ring stage, bright colour pop stools and geometric-shaped flower installations, whilst chic, jewel-adorned models dressed in stylised 80s silhouettes and white plimsolls, bopped and grooved to an 80s playlist.

This particular shape-on-shape two-finger striped, monochrome resin ring captures the essence of this striking collection. The majestic rock crystal sphere is carved, lined with yellow diamonds and filled with tightly packed yellow sapphires. Alongside sits a sleek black titanium and diamond-set cube re-imaging the 'toi et moi' in a completely unexpected and novel way.

Chaumet

Magnolia, Chaumet

By contrast, Chaumet’s high jewellery reveal assumed a quieter level of sophistication. The show space was transformed by undulations of dense foliage arranged on long, sleek tables, tall display cases, moody dark and navy portraits and painted cabinetry. The entire collection - aptly named 'Le Jardin de Chaumet' - inspired by a much loved theme, Nature, was divided into chapters with a noteworthy nod to the House's penchant for parures. Wheat and bark, flowers and bouquets provided some of the inspiration. Varied aesthetic styles differentiated each chapter and revealed the skilled craftsmanship of the goldsmiths that carve, cast, set and polish these extraordinarily intricate pieces. I love Modernist design, so it is of little surprise that I was drawn to the Magnolias.

The suite comprising three pieces centred around the beautiful flower. Asymmetric spirals of textured golden metal petals in overlapping propeller-like layers created a striking visual statement. The effect was further enhanced by the dazzle of marquise diamonds and the exquisite hexagonal cut diamond centrepiece.

De Beers

'Winter' necklace, De Beers

Also with a focus on nature, De Beers High Jewellery showcase focused on the four seasons, which were inspiration for an extraordinary collection of diamond-set pieces. Each season draws on the House's signature codes including rough and polished diamonds set in dynamic and mostly transformable pieces.

Particularly striking for me were the armour-like silhouettes of the winter collection inspired by ice formations on frozen lakes and rivers. The articulated shimmer of white diamonds on angular shards were ingeniously connected to one another in order to achieve effortless interactions with the body. The combination of rough and polished diamonds, and polished and textured white gold metals, brings with it a distinctive fluidity, altering the play of light as the wearer moves, mimicking the effect of cracked ice on water. To add to the drama, the centrepiece supports a rare treasure: a 5.06 carat Fancy Dark Green Grey diamond which can be detached and worn as a statement pendant on a diamond-set chain.

Tasaki

Tasaki 'Cascade', Atelier 6 - Tasaki

The liquid properties of water play a central role in Tasaki’s Atelier 6 collection. The creative inspiration focuses on the interplay and effects of light emanating from the sun and the moon and how these elements interact in particular with water as it flows, cascades and gushes. From valleys and crevices in forests and ancient woodlands to the reflections from both these celestial forces on the undulating surfaces of the world’s oceans, Tasaki heroes the pearl in a mesmerising display of statement jewels.

My favourite is the 'Cascade' parure. It is inspired by sparkling water droplets as they flow down rocky mountain ravines in glorious waterfalls. The curvaceous, geometric structure of the sensual neckpiece and form-hugging ear cuff bring contrast to the uninhibited movement of the free-flowing pearl strands tipped with ice green Paraiba Tourmalines.

Van Cleef & Arpels

'Teatro' ring, Van Cleef & Arpels

The Grand Tour inspired the collection at Van Cleef & Arpels - an invitation to dream and escape through jewellery inspired by iconic landmarks and cultural iconography. This repertoire of travel memorabilia is rich in symbolism, heritage and nostalgia. Geometric aesthetics abound in exquisite miniature renditions of majestic architectural landmarks. The 'Teatro' ring is a case in point. Inspired by the Theatre of Pompeii – a performance space inaugurated in 55 BC -  Van Cleef & Arpels pays tribute to the ancient ruin and architecture of the period with a graphic and generously proportioned piece in yellow and white gold where scrolled shanks meet concentric circular amphitheatre-like settings.

A sugar loaf emerald of Zambian origin, weighing 3.93 carats, nestles at the centre of the scene. Its rich, saturated tones recall the colours of the monument’s facade. Round and baguette-cut diamonds emphasise the contour of the stone, while a play of steps in intricately polished gold creates intense reflections. On the body of the ring, carved volutes recall the silhouettes of Ionic columns. The various three-dimensional reliefs amuse the eye which plunges into the world of ancient theatre.

All in all, this is my commentary on these thoughtfully designed and exquisitely crafted collections, which brings me full circle and back to my opening paragraph… I feel so lucky to be part of this world and to have interacted with these magnificent pieces in Paris.

Words: Juliet Hutton-Squire